Learn to Sew a Small Lined Zipper Pouch

Instructions

You can make just about any size zipper pouch. However, for the purpose of this tutorial, we will be making a small 5"Wx4"H (finished size) zipper pouch with a lining. We will also be cutting two different pieces of fabric for the exterior.
NOTE: We will use a 1/4" seam allowance except for the zipper, where we will allow 1/2".

1. Cut Fabric
   Cut (2) 3-3/4"Hx5-1/2"W exterior top fabric
   Cut (2) 1-1/2"Hx5-1/2"W exterior bottom fabric
   Cut (2) 4-3/4"Hx5-1/2"W lining fabric
   Cut (2) 2"Hx1-1/2"W zipper tabs
   Cut (2) 4-3/4"Hx5-1/2"W fusible fleece
   
2. Trim Zipper
   Measure 5" from the top of the zipper stop down the zipper and mark this spot with a fabric marking pen. Place a straight pin across the zipper teeth just above this mark (will help to keep the zipper from unzipping on you). Trim the zipper at the mark. Also trim the top of the zipper just above the top zipper stop.
   
3. Sew Exterior Pieces
   Take one of the bottom pieces and lay it right side up. Take one of the top pieces and lay it on the bottom piece, right side down (right sides together). Line up the long edge and pin or clip in place.
   If you are using directional fabric, make sure you have the fabrics lined up properly.
   Sew with a 1/4" seam allowance along the long pinned or clipped edge.
   Repeat with the other two exterior fabric pieces.
   
4. Apply Fusible Fleece
   First, press your seam towards one side. I pressed mine towards the top fabric.
   Then follow the manufacturer's instructions for applying the fusible fleece. Generally, you will lay the fabric face down (wrong side up) and lay the fleece against the wrong side of the fabric. Lay a pressing cloth over the top of the fabric/fleece and press. The pressing cloth helps to protect your iron. Repeat with the other exterior fabric piece and fusible fleece.
   
5. Press Zipper Tabs
   While you're at your iron and ironing board, we will press the zipper tabs. Take one of the tabs and fold it in half (the folded tab will measure 1-1/2"x1") and press. Open up the folded fabric and fold the ends towards the fold and press. Your pressed tabs should measure 1-1/2"Wx1/2"H.
   
6. Sew Zipper Tabs
   Take one end of your zipper and center it inside one of the folded zipper tabs. Pin or clip in place. Repeat with the other end of the zipper.
   Stitch across the edge of the zipper tab, securing the zipper in the zipper tab "sandwich". Repeat with the other end of the zipper.
   
7. Quilt/Top Stitch Exterior Fabric
   I like to add some quilting of top stitching to my fabric. It helps to secure the fusible fleece to the fabric and gives a nice finished appearance. Using a 4.0mm or longer stitch length, stitch about 1/8" away from the seam on the top piece of the exterior fabric.
   Stitch again 1" away from the first row of stitching. To help ensure a straight line, you can use a quilt guide, or use a ruler and fabric marker to mark your fabric. Or you can use the seam guidelines on your presser plate or simply eyeball it.
   Stitch again 1" away from the second row of stitching. Repeat with the other piece of exterior fabric.
   
8. Sew the Zipper
   Take one piece of the exterior fabric and lay it face up on your work surface. Center one long edge of the zipper face down on the fabric. Line up the edges and pin or clip in place.
   Take one piece of the lining fabric and lay it face down on top of the zipper. Re-pin or re-clip in place.
   
   It helps to switch to your zipper foot. And place your needle in the left position.
   Line up your zipper foot so that it is close to your zipper teeth (but not on them). You can also use the right edge of your zipper foot to line it up with your fabric edge. I like to start sewing at the bottom of the zipper and then when I get close to the zipper pull, stop sewing, raise my presser foot (with my needle in the down position) and slide the zipper pull out of the way. Then lower the zipper foot and continue sewing to the end of the fabric.
   
   Take your second piece of exterior fabric and lay it face up (right side up). Lay the other long edge of the zipper right side down onto the fabric. Line up the long edges and pin or clip in place. Lay the lining fabric right side down on top of the zipper and re-pin or re-clip in place.
   
   Again, you will stitch along the long edge, close to the zipper teeth. Make sure you keep an eye on the zipper pull and move it out of your way as you sew.
9. Press the Pouch
   At this point, I like to press the fabrics away from the zipper so that the fabric lays nice and flat.
10. Stitch Lining and Exterior Pieces Together
    !! IMPORTANT: UNZIP THE ZIPPER ABOUT 3/4 OF THE WAY OPEN.
    Line up the two lining pieces with right sides together and pin or clip in place. You'll also line up the two exterior fabric pieces and continue to pin or clip in place. Fold the zipper tab towards the lining.
    Leaving a 3" opening in the bottom of the lining, stitch using a 1/4" seam allowance. So you will start sewing at the bottom of the lining fabric, sew to the corner, stopping 1/4" from the edge, pivot and stitch up the side. Again, stopping 1/4" from the corner, pivot and continue across the top, down the other side, and part way across the bottom of the lining. Make sure you leave an opening for turning.
    Cut each corner at an angle to reduce bulk.
    
    
11. Turn Right Side Out
    Turn pouch right side out through the lining opening and continue turning through the zipper opening. Use a turning tool or the eraser end of a pencil to help push out all the corners.
    
    
12. Stitch Lining Opening
    Fold the seam allowance of the lining opening in towards the wrong side of the lining fabric. Pin or clip in place. Then stitch a very narrow (about 1/8") sttich along the opening to sew it closed. You can also hand stitch it closed, if you prefer.
    
13. Final Pressing
    Once you have sewn the lining closed and inserted it back into the pouch, I like to give the pouch one final pressing. Just take it to your ironing board and press it nice and flat with your iron.
    
14. ALL DONE!
    There really isn't a 14th step. I just couldn't leave it at 13. Ha! But, seriously, your pouch is all done and ready to be used or gifted!